Vintage Levis 70505 Tracker Jacket

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PATTERN LABO.My name is Ikasan.

By tearing apart good old vintage clothing, thinking about it, and fantasizing about it, I am striving to make current manufacturing more interesting.

This time
LEVI'S 70505〈 4TH-TYPE Tracker Jacket〉.

This is Levi's Tracker Jacket.
What is 4th type? Some people may think that way.

It's a 3RD type, right? For those who thought. that's right! !
I wrote it as 4TH, but some people don't call it 4TH.
It may be confusing to those who don't know what it is, but this G jacket is called 3RD type in terms of details, so I think most people call it 3RD.

The Tracker Jacket called 3RD is called 557XX or 557.
And the Tracker Jacket in this image has a model number of 70505.

Because it gets complicated
3RD=557
4TH=70505
That's what I'll write here.

So what's the difference?
First is the time of manufacture.

Next, the length is different.
The main feature of 70505 is that it is longer than 557.
To be more precise, there are still differences, but please look into the details.

shape and details

The shape is different from the 506XX, and you can clearly see that it has evolved because the dart portion is placed on the switching line.
In short, it feels like it was made to fit the body better than in the past, like the 506XX.

Collar stop

Already! I hope this image conveys the message, but when I saw this, I was incredibly excited!
(At that time it was 557)

This is a collar stop.
The overall shape of the collar is different from 506XX.
And most of all...

There is a hidden bartack at the end of the collar!

Bar tacks are reinforced stitches that have a jagged feel.
Why is it out of sight? ?
When I think about it,...
The sewing order is to base-stitch the facing part and the front body, then cut in and expose the seam allowance.
After that, the body is sandwiched between the collar and attached through several steps .

The key point is that there are several steps involved before the collar is attached, so it is thought that they wanted to prevent the stitched edges from fraying during this process.

Why bother? ? You may think so, but due to the structure, it would be quite troublesome if the collar attachment came undone. So I think that possibility is high.

hidden bar tacks

This too! I was so excited when I first found it.
This is a hidden bartack at the front yoke joint.
Even though it's hidden, it can be seen from behind even if you don't unravel it.
If you have a vintage 3RD type, please take a look.

And what is this for? It's for temporary fixing of the flap! !
I can't believe the temporary fixing is done with bar tacks, Levi! So stylish!
That's what it looks like.
Furthermore, the temporary fixing positions on the left and right sides are different on the side and CF sides.
The problem is the direction in which the material is put into the sewing machine when sewing, but this is too much of a geeky subject, so I will omit it.

I'll take this opportunity to consider it one more step.
[I used bar tacks instead of stitches because I was concerned about the appearance]
It's wonderful because it's very romantic.

“Do you really care about that? ”

Let's think about it from that perspective.
What you will see is that the chest pocket has a bartack for the pocket opening.

The bartack is difficult to insert because the flap is in the way, so it is inserted before the yoke joint.
When you think about it...
[Temporarily fasten the flap while bar-tacking the pocket opening]
This hypothesis also holds true.
It's just for efficiency. That's the idea.

By the way, I think this is the correct answer!
That's too much of a maniac, I'll leave it at that.

pocket opening

The pocket opening is not locked and is left open.
Being able to look at things that don't rock in a positive light is something unique to vintage music.

flap

This is hard to tell, but it's a flap.
This is also a very exciting point for me.

The upper side of the flap of this item is
You can't see it because it's tucked into the rolled stitch, but when I unraveled it, it was a mess.
That's the story, but the question here is, ``Why?'' I would also like to think about this.

There are two main steps to making a flap.
- Stitch around the edges, turn it over, and then add stitches.
- Fold in the surrounding seam allowance with an iron, overlap the two pieces, and press with stitches.
These are the two choices.

And this flap has the latter structure.
In other words, it is possible that the process of ironing and then stitching was judged to be more efficient than the process of ground stitching and turning.
I see. Isn't that what it feels like?

If I were to look at it more positively, there is no ground stitching where the flaps meet, so the ground stitching looks subtle. Nothing happens and it looks beautiful.

hem tab

There are many mysteries here, but after basting the top and bottom folds with thread of the same color as the fabric,
The main body is folded in two and closed with top stitch.
Why bother? You may not think so, but the stitches of the same color on the fabric are chain stitched on the back side. It seems like it was made using a trumpet.
What I mean is,
So you created a fairly long piece with seam allowances folded in at the top and bottom, and then cut it to the length needed for the tab.
I can't say it's 100%, but this is almost 100% correct! That's what I think.



so
There are many molds of this type, so I'll leave it at that.

LEVI'S 70505 It was fun this time too! !
Actually, I dismantled 557 before 70505, and that was the reason I became addicted to this work, so I have a strong attachment to this type of mold.

Thank you until the end even though it's long! !
Levis 70505 Tracker Jacket This is it.