FRENCH ARMY M52 CHINO TROUSERS

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PATTERN LABO.My name is Ikasan.

By tearing apart good old vintage clothing, thinking about it, and fantasizing about it, I am striving to make current manufacturing more interesting.

This time

French Army M52 Chino early model

These pants were used by the French military from the 1950s to the 1960s.
Speaking of French military pants, the image of the M47 is strong, but the M52 is also a masterpiece.

After all, it's well balanced.
I think so.
Although it is thick and loose, it uses two tucks to create a silhouette that does not look unfashionable and gives a clean impression.In sewing, it is important to be aware of the country of origin, such as the use of rolled stitches and folded down stitches, and the fineness of needle movement. It is a challenging type 1.
It is divided into early and late models, and I feel like there are actually strong individual differences between the items.

Overall picture

This is because it has tucks, but the front part feels thick.
In addition to the tuck at the waist absorbing this thickness, the slope of the back of the body is not too sloping, and the curve of the buttocks is also created, creating a thick and clean impression.

back pocket tab

There is a tab on the back pocket opening.
This is one of the characteristics of the early model, and is changed to a flap in the later model.
I think it's understandable that it will change to a flap because it has to be in a good position and I think it's probably easier to use.
I like this one better in terms of design.

This is the later model.

belt loop

The belt loops are tucked in at the top and bottom.
What's more, each item is sewn one by one and turned over. (The back side is smooth)
It takes a lot of effort.
This is also a feature of the first half, and changes to a normal loop in the second half.

darts

The rear dart pierces the bead pocket.
I want darts, but I want the beaded pocket on the top.
I think that's the result, but I like the purity of the dart that penetrated the pocket.
I'm sure some pattern makers can relate to this. Isn't there?

notch

There is a notch at the top of the tuck on the front.
This landmark notch is often not vintage (including those that are unraveled and cannot be seen). It's kind of rare that it remains so clearly.

intersection of thighs

I'm sure there are many people who just need to see this, but I'll explain it briefly.
The most important thing to convey in this image is that the front and back legs are sewn later than the inner legs.
That's what it means.
The order in which you sew here is a very important thing that affects the shape of the pattern.

Everything. Not being able to say this is both the fun and frustration of making clothes, but please be aware that this case is no exception.

In the end, what I feel here is that manufacturing does not place the highest priority on work efficiency.
Of course, it is quite possible that which sewing procedure is more efficient will change depending on how you get used to it.
However, this is an obsession. There is a reason why I say this.
This is because many of the later models have changes to the sewing procedure.
Did you have anything in mind when you made it?
It's really interesting to think about this.

Reinforced rear hem

It's a little hard to see, but this is a photo of the trifold hem.
The lower side is the back side, and there are several pieces of patch cloth attached.
The heel is reinforced, but I wonder if it was necessary because the hem is so thick at 27cm.

back of thigh

Front side pocket

In fact, I think this part is the most distinctive feature.
The sides are folded down and double stitched at the front.
The front body side was sandwiched between the bag cloth and the endpaper, and the back body side was sandwiched between the bag cloth and the facing cloth.
It's hard to explain, but the design is to not show the raw edges as much as possible.
Since it is unavoidable that there will be a notch in the area where the pocket opening intersects with the folding, it is thought that there are bar tacks in two places only on the bottom side.

Was it important to be able to sew without using a lock sewing machine?
Did you not want to use the lock sewing machine (didn't want to show it)?
The truth is unknown, but locks are not used anywhere.
In the later model, a lock will appear at the end of this bag.

Late model↓

Still, what I find strange is that I don't feel like it's become easier to sew since I've changed the lock.
I feel like the edges are a little better settled.

At first glance, you might not know how to make a bag at all, but you might be surprised to find out, ``What is this stitching?''
There may be hidden specifications like this.

Uses of chain stitch

This is also what I find most interesting.
・Double stitching from side to front high fold down.
・Double stitching at the crotch opening → left high fold down.
・Double stitching from inner thigh → high front seam.

What you can see from this specification is that the stitches are sewn without using a wrap stitch, except for areas that are difficult to do without a wrap stitch.

I won't go into details, but rolling stitches require fewer steps and are more efficient than folding stitches. And in the case of rolled stitches, the back side will be chain stitched.
It looks the same except for the chain stitch.
(Depending on the sewing method, there may be one more stitch visible on the back side.)

Even so, why did you choose to only use wrapping stitches in one place?
The problem is the number of sewing machines.
I can't rule out that possibility, but such an answer would be too unromantic, so I'll reject it.
Commitment to sewing and strength
This answer is excellent.
Wrap stitching is efficient, but since it is a chain stitch, it has some weaknesses when added to unraveling.
Even when it comes to needle movement, it is not possible to set it smaller than with lockstitching, so it tends to be coarse.
This is probably the result of people at the time being particular about making things that were European. If you think about it like that, don't you think that the early M52 model is truly a masterpiece?

That's it. It's just a delusion, though.

so,
It was fun this time too! !
FRENCH ARMY M52 CHINO TROUSERSThis.