501XX-No paper patch fee

Thank you very much for your support.
PATTERN LABO.My name is Ikasan.

By tearing apart good old vintage clothing, thinking about it, and fantasizing about it, I am striving to make current manufacturing more interesting.

“Everyone loves you XX”

However, the 501 called XX was manufactured for a very long time, and even within XX, the chronology is detailed.

Such 501XX, this time it is a late model.
[No paper patch fee]
It is from the period called.
It is said to have been produced between 1962 and 1966.

What is 501XX paper patch without payment?

The image is 503BXX, but there is no paper patch fee.
When it gets paid,
"EVERY GARMENT GUARANTEED"
It is written in the area marked with a red square.

If you are interested, please search for "Paper patch included".

In the previous post ,
“501 likes BIG-E. ”
I talked about it,
This 501XX is also in my favorite era.

And Why,
This is because during this period, you can feel the transition period of manufacturing as cotton yarn and spun yarn are mixed together!
(See the previous BIG-E post for details)

Difference with bigE

The big difference is
"There are hidden rivets"
That said,
The fabric is different.

Hidden rivets are metal parts placed on the left and right sides of the top of the back pocket, and are attached to reinforced areas that are not visible from the outside.

“Who doesn’t like hidden rivets? ”

It's such a great detail, isn't it?
I also love the detail .
(Not necessary if you wear it)

Regarding the fabric
In the first place, [XX] is given to indicate that the highest quality fabric is used, so it seems that XX and non-XX items are not the same fabric.

bag cloth slake

``The influence of cotton thread extends to such a place! ? ”
It's a bit of an exaggeration to say that, but if you pay attention to the color of the seams,
You can see that the color of the thread is changing.

The cotton thread has a nice atmosphere!
This may be a factor as well.

Back pocket, hidden rivet

Hidden rivets are made by cutting a notch in the upper seam allowance.
Actually, this notch is a curved line,
In current manufacturing

[The cut is not necessarily in the same position as the vintage one. ]

A situation has occurred.
If nothing changes even if the position of the notch changes, then it's not visible from the front, so there's nothing wrong with that.
I think so, but the reality is that changing the position of the notch changes the strength, and the original purpose of the rivet is diminished.
VINTAGE's hidden rivets are a really well-thought-out design, and I personally feel that it's a design that embodies Levi's identity.

I think that the use of hidden rivets today has a strong meaning as a design element and a respect for the Levi's of the time, and I would like to understand this before incorporating it.

About thread count

Although it is not in a position that is clearly visible from the front
I wonder if it's about 6th place? A thick thread that seems to be used is used.
In addition, thicker count is used in many other areas, such as the lower front edge, the crotch, the quinch, and the belt attachment side.

Did you want to make the side seams stronger?
What's in front of the bottom? Is it because of the process?

There are endless questions,
Not only here,

[Overall count distribution]
(Count is the thickness of the sewing thread)

I think this is a very important point, and one that I really like.

Because,,
I think this is a method unique to mass production that allows consideration of strength and design without reducing production efficiency.

To explain briefly,
When it comes to changing the color and type of thread depending on the sewing location,
Of course, you'll have to reinstall the thread on your sewing machine.

yeah? Is it right? ?

Actually, that's not the case.
That's not necessarily necessarily the case.
Because,

[Changing the sewing machine depending on the sewing location]

By changing the sewing machine itself, you can avoid changing the thread.
This is unique to mass production, where each sewing machine is used for one process, rather than production made one piece at a time.

That's what I said, but it's 100% true!
That's not the point.
I think it's difficult to say because there are variables such as the size of the factory and the number of pieces produced at that time.
I understand that it is more persuasive and can have more influence if you say it out loud, but the more you know about it, the more you can't say anything.

Well, it's interesting to think like this.

coin pocket

Like the previous bigE, the coin pocket does not have an ear pocket and has thunder wrinkles.
I feel like the closer you are to the age, the more Dior you wear.

Hidden rivet instructions

It was fun this time too! !

LEVI'S 501XX No paper patch fee
With this.