THE STUDY sample

[I don't know if I would have been able to continue if I hadn't dismantled this G jacket]
That's why my encounter with this jacket meant so much to me.
This time, let's take a look at "557", which has many things to notice in the invisible parts.

“There are very few things that can be learned just by dismantling it.”
About two years ago, I was thinking like this after dismantling 501 BIGE with one of the purposes being to disseminate information .

I thought it would be too early to draw conclusions without doing anything sophisticated, so I decided to work on it next.
This is the 3rd type G jacket called 557 that we will be introducing this time.
And every time I discover various hidden specifications,
I felt a sense of elation, as if I had discovered a secret that no one else knew .

“I’m not interested in that.” “It’s a waste.”
We sometimes receive opinions such as,
As a way to interact with clothes other than just wearing them and having fun.
I will continue my activities with the belief that there will be people who will enjoy it.



Breast pocket flap. Isn't it dangerous?
You can find out quite a lot just by looking at this one picture.
but,
What are you excited about? Many people may feel that way.

The upper side of the flap is sewn into the horizontal switching line on the top of the flap.

As you can see from this image, the flap is made by folding a piece of cloth in half.
The upper side of the flap is sewn in and cannot be seen, so whether it is formed with one piece or two pieces, it will look the same from the front side.

Moreover, this switching line is sewn using a wrapping stitch, so it is completely invisible unless it is unraveled.
(I will omit the explanation of rolling stitches)

Specifications that can never be seen from the outside
It’s here━━━━(ﾟ∀ﾟ)━━━━!!

My next thought was
[Why did we choose a one-piece flap?] ]

These considerations are interesting.
Please think about it too.

This is the back side of the breast pocket before it is unraveled.
It's a little hard to see, but can you see the bar tacking on the upper right side?
(Not the vertical bartack, but the horizontal bartack at the top right of the vertical bartack)
This bartack is not visible from the front.
It's a hidden bolt.
The hidden specifications weren't just for the back pocket of the 501.
Most of the items are probably not included in the current 3rd type,
Is it included in your 3rdG jacket?

And as for why this bar tacking is necessary, this has to be solved.
I don't think I understood.
It was probably added to temporarily secure the flap.
(I'm almost certain, but there's no 100% guarantee)

It's easy to imagine when you look at this image above.
This fact, along with the shape of the flap, made me feel quite excited.
I mean,
I've seen many 3rd types before, but I didn't notice them. (Embarrassing!)

By the way, LEE's G-jacket is temporarily fastened with regular stitches, not bar tacks, and in modern times they are temporarily fastened with dissolvable thread, so you can't see it.

I feel that Levi's is the king because they use bar tacks instead of regular sewing machines .
Having said that, I also discovered that the later 557XX (slightly older) was temporarily secured with lock stitches.

I'll try to think more about it by changing my perspective a little.
It is a hidden specification in the back pocket of 501XX,
I see no reason why both rivets and bartacks would be used.
That's what I'm told.
So this time
[Hidden kandome = temporary fix]
Applying this process to pants
I think it makes sense that 501XX used both rivets and bar tacks.



Collar stopper.
This is also difficult to understand
There is a bartack at the end of the collar.

I think it is inserted so that it does not fray.
I don't have much to say about this in detail, but
I was very excited because I would never know unless I solved this.

in addition,
The fact that they went out of their way to change the thread color to add bar tacks is...
I guess the risk was that it might come undone during the process from finishing the front edge to attaching the collar! I try to think about it.

patch part.
The patch is stitched starting from the neckline and working its way out .
You can't see the backstitching, which is great!
I think this is a specification that varies considerably between individuals.
I would be excited if the VINTAGE I purchased had this specification.

Actually, there is another thing that I would like to talk about with as much enthusiasm as the flap that I mentioned earlier.
That is the relationship between the sleeves and the body.
https://ikajum.jp/blogs/the-study/vintage-levis-507xx-late
However, since this story is touched on, it may be easier to understand if you check it out as well.
Prior to this, the sleeves and body were sewn using rolled stitches.
However, at this point, a change was finally made to the lock process.

If you compare the shapes of 506XX and 507XX, 557 is similar to 507.
What does that mean?

This is a completely selfish story, but

The sleeves of the 506XX are relatively easy to roll and sew, so there were no manufacturing problems.
↓↓
With 507XX, changes were made to the armholes and sleeve hems in order to eliminate the unfashionable look and create a more stylish design, which made it somewhat difficult to wrap and sew, which caused manufacturing problems.
↓↓
For the 557, it was necessary to solve a manufacturing problem, and the armhole seams were changed from rolled stitches to lock stitches.

Isn't there a story like that? What?
Whatever the circumstances, the fact that the armholes were changed from rolled stitches to lock stitches means that the choice was made to emphasize the silhouette rather than the rolled stitches (no locks in the process). As a pattern maker, I am deeply moved.

Look inside the button.

Hem tab.
It may look like an ordinary tab, but I discovered something here as well.

Apart from the orange stitching, you can see the chain stitching in the same color as the fabric.
This tab is made by sewing a long rectangle into a U shape and then turning it over. The ends of the long rectangle are folded in, then folded in half and held in place with stitches.
In other words, there is no ground stitching.

Therefore, in order to securely hold the folded edges, I used a chain stitch first.
This means that the ends of the long and thin parts are folded in, held in place with stitches, and then cut to the required size.

It makes no sense. Some people may say,
In short, this is an emotional point that shows the evolution of sewing specifications.

It was fun this time too! !

LEVI'S 557-Late period
With this.