Vintage Levi's 507XX-Late model
“Are you a TYPE1 person?
Or is it TYPE2? ”
There are two similar but different types of Levi's G jackets.
This time, let's take a look at 507XX (type2).
Or is it TYPE2? ”
There are two similar but different types of Levi's G jackets.
This time, let's take a look at 507XX (type2).
There are pockets on the left and right.
The rear buckle is gone and has become a tab.
In addition to the changes that can be seen at a glance, I was able to find changes that gave me confidence through disassembly . This is why I can't stop.
By the way, I prefer TYPE1.
Button and piss name.
The structure of the button is clearly different from 506XX.
Tab embroidery also changed to double-sided embroidery, gradually becoming more efficient.
Out of curiosity, I looked inside and found that it looked like this.
After all, you can see that it is essentially different from 506XX.
A different fabric is also used on the back of the flap.
I think it's to reduce the thickness, but it's kind of emotional to think that they used a different fabric than the outer material just for this one part.
I think it's to reduce the thickness, but it's kind of emotional to think that they used a different fabric than the outer material just for this one part.
Incidentally, like 506XX, the flaps and pockets are sewn in one stroke without cutting the thread.
I can imagine that with this specification, the sewing machine probably didn't have the ability to cut the thread, so it would have been more efficient to connect the threads and sew them together rather than cutting them, but by connecting them, there would be less backstitching, which is kind of emotional. So I really like it.
If I were to do this now...
I think it's a bad idea to allow for the pockets to be easily misaligned.
I can imagine that with this specification, the sewing machine probably didn't have the ability to cut the thread, so it would have been more efficient to connect the threads and sew them together rather than cutting them, but by connecting them, there would be less backstitching, which is kind of emotional. So I really like it.
If I were to do this now...
I think it's a bad idea to allow for the pockets to be easily misaligned.
There are no skipped stitches at the corners at the bottom of the front pocket.
It's difficult to give a detailed explanation, so I'll give a brief explanation.
It looks like I failed to sew the two corners other than the bottom that you can see in the photo.
There is something triangular shaped on the inside stitch.
This is possible because it is sewn with a sewing machine called a double needle, which can make two stitches at the same time (this is not always the case nowadays), but this is not seen in the center bottom corner.
There is nothing that could normally be done.
In other words, it can be assumed that the stitches were put in all at once, thinking that there would be no problem at this angle.
Considering that it is often quite difficult to reflect ambiguous details in current Japanese manufacturing, this is also a good specification.
In other words, it can be assumed that the stitches were put in all at once, thinking that there would be no problem at this angle.
Considering that it is often quite difficult to reflect ambiguous details in current Japanese manufacturing, this is also a good specification.
The pocket buttons are punched into one piece.
I think there are many people who think that there is no reinforcement, but with denim, there is something unexpected.
In addition, was this chest pocket designed to not be used so hard? I fantasize about it.
In addition, was this chest pocket designed to not be used so hard? I fantasize about it.
What you should pay attention to is the transition between the back and front sleeves.
507XX has a gap towards the top and bottom of the sleeve.
When I wrote about 506XX, I mentioned that there was no gap here and it was for the length of the fabric.
507XX has a gap towards the top and bottom of the sleeve.
When I wrote about 506XX, I mentioned that there was no gap here and it was for the length of the fabric.
Remember when I said it was just a switch?
To explain briefly,
It can be said that the 507XX sleeves have a more three-dimensional structure that corresponds to the human body and movement than the 506XX sleeves.
I think this is a big change between 506XX and 507XX.
Why did this change occur?
When I think about this, there is no end to it, and there is no answer.
With a customer who came to the office the other day,
“Did it develop from 506XX? Or was there something influenced by the tailor style?”
I enjoyed this conversation with no answers.
Maybe
I wonder if we can figure this out if we have comprehensive world historical knowledge of clothing in the era.
To explain briefly,
It can be said that the 507XX sleeves have a more three-dimensional structure that corresponds to the human body and movement than the 506XX sleeves.
I think this is a big change between 506XX and 507XX.
Why did this change occur?
When I think about this, there is no end to it, and there is no answer.
With a customer who came to the office the other day,
“Did it develop from 506XX? Or was there something influenced by the tailor style?”
I enjoyed this conversation with no answers.
Maybe
I wonder if we can figure this out if we have comprehensive world historical knowledge of clothing in the era.
The armholes are of course rolled stitched,
In fact, a very important change is occurring here.
506XX has low sleeves and a gentle curve in the armholes.
Therefore, there is no problem when sewing the stitches.
(However, it is very difficult to wrap the curves around each other.)
On the other hand, when it comes to 507XX, the armholes and sleeve widths are much smaller.
This makes the sleeve hem relatively high, making it much more difficult to wrap and sew.
Were there many failures such as flat tires?
Therefore, there is no problem when sewing the stitches.
(However, it is very difficult to wrap the curves around each other.)
On the other hand, when it comes to 507XX, the armholes and sleeve widths are much smaller.
This makes the sleeve hem relatively high, making it much more difficult to wrap and sew.
Were there many failures such as flat tires?
The sewing procedure for the front edge is different from 506XX.
Whereas in 506XX, the top and bottom ends were handled separately.
507XX has been changed so that the front edge stitch is added after the top and bottom are sewn together.
Whereas in 506XX, the top and bottom ends were handled separately.
507XX has been changed so that the front edge stitch is added after the top and bottom are sewn together.
On the one hand, I think this is more efficient, but on the other hand, with the 506 specifications, you can use different stitches, and I also think that the sewing specifications have a lot more depth.
Hem tab. The 506XX had a buckle with a buckle in the center of the back.
The buckle in the center caused damage to horse harnesses and car seats, which caused problems. (There are various theories)
As a patterner, I think the tab position on the 507XX is better for adjusting the silhouette.
The buckle in the center caused damage to horse harnesses and car seats, which caused problems. (There are various theories)
As a patterner, I think the tab position on the 507XX is better for adjusting the silhouette.
Front end of hem belt.
I think this is the part where the commitment to BRAND matters is surprisingly apparent.
I think this is the part where the commitment to BRAND matters is surprisingly apparent.
If you look only at Levi's, the main point is where to use chain stitch, but it's even more interesting if you look at LEE and Wrangler as well.
Both rivets and bar tacks were included.
The lockstitching on the U material that was included in 506XX has disappeared, so I wonder if the bar tacks have replaced it?
If that's the case, I think it's highly likely that the bar tacking process was done with a special sewing machine in the intermediate process.
I wonder if it was a production site where there was flexibility to include any process, rather than manufacturing where a special sewing machine process was performed at the end. I thought about it.
This time as well, I will include the specifications that I created based on my own interpretation.
Please use this as a reference only.
It was fun this time too! !
LEVI'S 507XX-late
With this.
LEVI'S 507XX-late
With this.