Vintage Levi's 506XX-Late model

Thank you very much for your support.
This time, I would like to dig into Levi's masterpiece 506XX.
I will look at it from a perspective that is hard to see elsewhere, so
We hope you enjoy the maze of vintage wear from a different perspective than usual.

1st.2nd.3rd
I definitely want to dig into Levi's G jacket type 3.
With that in mind, I've been working on it recently.

“Someone in the past has mastered denim, so why is it happening now?”
"No matter what you do, you can't beat the pioneers."

Although I felt frustrated at times when I was told things like that, I believed that there was some meaning to it, so I dug into it steadily.

Regardless of whether it was meaningful or not, I would like to hear from people who saw the post and people who came to visit our office.
"it was fun"
There are more and more things to say.

Let me start by introducing my favorite points.

The back of the flap is made of a thin separate fabric, and the texture is the opposite of the front.
I'm sure many of you know this.
And if you look at this from the back side of the body,



The ST where the flap is attached and the ST where the pocket is attached are kept intact without being cut.
If you can't see it on the surface, it's probably because the thread has been cut.

And this is a specification that has been made more efficient.
Since sewing machines did not have a function to cut the thread semi-automatically, it is thought that they were devised to make it possible to sew with a single stroke.
This is a specification that can be seen not only in this item but also in various vintage items.

It is difficult to reproduce this now.

This is the part where the collar is attached at the front end.
I couldn't understand this until I solved it.
The fold-in at the front end is designed to be folded in to the collar attachment part, and I guess they added a deep collar to hide it. ? We can infer that.
There are other reasons to wear a deep collar, but it's fun to think about all the possibilities.

The front yoke seam is not a wrap stitch all the way to the edge, but halfway, so there is a stitch at the front edge that is held down in addition to the wrap stitch.
Regarding this,
The body side is used for ears. The yoke is folded.
Please note that this is a condition.

The stitching at the end of the cuffs is actually quite detailed.
It has rolled stitches, tri-folds, and a separate U-shaped presser stitch.
This will also be simplified a little later.

Pleated stitching at front edge.
What is this pressure stitch for? ?
I didn't understand this problem for a long time, but apparently it was a size adjustment function! !
If your stomach gets fat, please solve it. I guess that's what it means, but I've never seen anyone wearing it in real life.

the back of the button.
It has this shape until this time.
This is the part you don't normally see.

The rivet is the type that has a hole in the upper part. It feels like VINTAGE.
The engraving is only on the front side.
After that, it will evolve to be engraved on both sides.
The history of this evolution is also interesting because it is unique to mass-produced vintage products.

The back side of the piss name.
I took the opportunity to put it on the side where you can't see it without disassembling it.



The buckle for the buckle is a late model, so there is no needle.

Let's look at the whole thing again.
I feel like there are a lot of straight parts.
This is also a characteristic that tends to be seen in vintage items, and I feel that they are intentionally made in a straight line, except for the parts that are truly necessary, taking into account the convenience of cutting and sewing.
One big point I would like to point out is that the transition part of the sleeve is completely straight.
In other words, it is not a switching line for silhouette manipulation, but just a switching line.
Furthermore, it is a switch to reduce the amount of fabric used as much as possible.

Although it is hard to see in the image, there is a switching line where the vertical and horizontal sides of the fabric intersect.
These are the seamed parts of the front and back yokes (switching on the top of the body), the belt part of the hem, and the cuffs.
By the way, the amount of shrinkage of the fabric for this item due to vertical and horizontal washing is different.
The vertical side will shrink more when washed than the horizontal side.
What happens as a result of this is,
Where the vertical and horizontal lines intersect, distortions and distortions occur that cannot be reproduced using paper patterns.

A pattern can never be reproduced.
(Sometimes it is possible to get closer)

Why can't it be done?
If the pattern maker messes with the sewing process, it can be reproduced.
You might think so.

But it's not that easy either.
Since the wrapping stitch uses a special sewing machine, it is often unable to do delicate things like a lockstitch sewing machine.
When it comes to gathers, we also have to solve the problem of thickness.
etc,,

This is a difficult conclusion for various reasons.
Well, if you only have a sample (sew one piece), you can do pretty much anything, so it really depends on the time and situation.

Above all, those of you who enjoy vintage don't need such a sloppy feel. I hope you will say so. LOL If you want that shirred feel, it's definitely better to use vintage fabrics.

Finally, I will post the specifications I created.
Please use this as a reference only, as it contains a lot of subjectivity.

Which G-jean do you like?
If you ask me that, 506XX will definitely come in the top.
I thought again that I really like it.

He's a pervert in a good way. I am often told that, but
If you read to the end, you're also a pervert!
thank you very much.

It was fun this time too! !

LEVI'S 506XX-late
With this.