Vintage M65 Field Cargo Pants
This time it's the US Army M65 Field Cargo Pants.
The M65 Field Cargo Pants, like the M65 Field Jacket, are durable military pants adopted by the US military and designed for field use. These pants are characterized by their design that is designed to withstand harsh environments and pursue practicality, and are still popular as vintage fashion items today.
Features of M65 Field Cargo Pants
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Design and Construction :
- Silhouette : The M65 Cargo Pants are designed with a relaxed, straight fit and ease of movement in mind. The silhouette is roomy for your legs to allow for comfortable movement during combat or outdoor activities.
- Fabric : Made from a nylon and cotton blend (NyCo fabric), this fabric is durable, breathable, quick drying and designed to withstand long-term use. It also has some wind and water resistance, making it suitable for use in harsh weather conditions.
- Colors : Mainly military patterns such as "olive drab," "khaki," and "woodland camouflage" are used.
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pocket :
- Cargo Pockets : There are large cargo pockets on both sides of the legs, which is why they are called "cargo pants." These pockets were designed to increase the practicality of military pants, and are large enough to hold tools, equipment, maps, etc. The pockets have flaps to prevent items from falling out.
- Back and front pockets : Large pockets on the hips and front are practically designed for storing things.
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Waist and Fit Adjustments :
- ADJUSTABLE WAIST : The M65 Cargo Pants feature adjustable waist tabs for a custom fit, allowing wearers to adjust the pants to fit them better even if their sizing varies slightly.
- Drawcord : There is also a drawcord at the hem, which can be tightened to fit your shoes or boots and to keep out dust and sand.
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Lining and thermal insulation :
- Liner compatible : Designed for use in cold climates, the pants are designed to have a removable liner inside, providing extra protection in the coldest conditions.
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Changes over time : Like the jacket, the M65 Field Cargo Pants also change over time, which is one of their charms. Washing and long-term use can cause the color to fade or become unevenly colored in some areas. This natural fading is highly valued in the vintage market, and the unique texture it gives makes it a popular fashion item.
I googled it.
That's the overview of the M65, but here I'd like to talk about some more niche topics.
The overall picture looks like this.
Of course, they are bulky because they are cargo pants, but
What I want you to pay attention to is the way the line starts from the waist (the top of the body) towards the hips.
Although it doesn't start at a right angle, you can see that the bulge is starting from about 5 cm below the top.
There are many possibilities as to what this means,
In other words, the waist connection is quite straight.
The long, thin part attached to the side of the left front body is the waist facing part.
That's right. It's a completely straight part.
Of course, they are bulky because they are cargo pants, but
What I want you to pay attention to is the way the line starts from the waist (the top of the body) towards the hips.
Although it doesn't start at a right angle, you can see that the bulge is starting from about 5 cm below the top.
There are many possibilities as to what this means,
In other words, the waist connection is quite straight.
The long, thin part attached to the side of the left front body is the waist facing part.
That's right. It's a completely straight part.
Huh?
There may be some pattern makers who think this way, but the waist facings on vintage military-related items often look like this.
The reason I think is that it uses a sewing technique called trumpet stitching, which increases sewing efficiency.
I think so, but there are pants that have a belt at the waist, so there may have been some intention behind the shape as well.
By the way, trying to do this in today's Japanese sewing factories is a double-edged sword.
We have to understand everything and create the pattern shape, and there are many aspects of the equipment that we need to overcome, as well as the fact that we are not familiar with it, and there is a possibility that many problems may occur.
Apart from the fact that the stitching on the endpapers is chain stitched, there seems to be no reason to use it in today's manufacturing.
When you see a pair of pants with chain stitching on the inside lining, you'll be surprised and want to take a closer look.
There may be some pattern makers who think this way, but the waist facings on vintage military-related items often look like this.
The reason I think is that it uses a sewing technique called trumpet stitching, which increases sewing efficiency.
I think so, but there are pants that have a belt at the waist, so there may have been some intention behind the shape as well.
By the way, trying to do this in today's Japanese sewing factories is a double-edged sword.
We have to understand everything and create the pattern shape, and there are many aspects of the equipment that we need to overcome, as well as the fact that we are not familiar with it, and there is a possibility that many problems may occur.
Apart from the fact that the stitching on the endpapers is chain stitched, there seems to be no reason to use it in today's manufacturing.
When you see a pair of pants with chain stitching on the inside lining, you'll be surprised and want to take a closer look.
M65 CARGO Hem Drawstring
There is a drawstring so you can tighten the hem.
The exit for the string is a hole, which is reinforced with the same fabric.
I really like the feel of not using adhesive interlining.
This is how to thread the string.
The exit for the string is a hole, which is reinforced with the same fabric.
I really like the feel of not using adhesive interlining.
This is how to thread the string.
I know that. I'm sure there are many people who think that, but if you get it wrong, you won't be able to squeeze in the few centimeters between the holes, and it will look a bit awkward, so I thought I'd explain it.
The way the string is passed is such that it passes twice in the few centimetres between the holes.
It's hard to explain in words
The way the string is passed is such that it passes twice in the few centimetres between the holes.
It's hard to explain in words
It looks like this.
This allows you to pull the garment smoothly while wearing it and tighten it all up.
It's a small thing, but it's important.
This allows you to pull the garment smoothly while wearing it and tighten it all up.
It's a small thing, but it's important.
Thread picking
Maybe this particular one was dead stock?
Or rather, since it's dead stock I can say this for sure, but there was so much thread left at the edge of the stitching that I wondered if they hadn't even considered the concept of thread picking.
I think this is also a good thing, but maybe there's still too much left.
(VINTAGE only)
Or rather, since it's dead stock I can say this for sure, but there was so much thread left at the edge of the stitching that I wondered if they hadn't even considered the concept of thread picking.
I think this is also a good thing, but maybe there's still too much left.
(VINTAGE only)
Rear pocket opening width
The bead width is 1cm.
In other words, you would think the seam allowance would be around 0.5 cm, but in reality the seam allowance was thicker towards the center.
In other words, you would think the seam allowance would be around 0.5 cm, but in reality the seam allowance was thicker towards the center.
I wonder if this is the reason why beading often appears to have an open center.
In fact, many VINTAGE welds have had this same design up until now.
In fact, many VINTAGE welds have had this same design up until now.
Of course, I don't intentionally write patterns like this when I'm making patterns, but I do think it's a little bit important to be able to see things from this perspective.
Name stitching
I mentioned the thread picking as well, but this also seems a bit messy.
But strangely, I don't feel too bad about this.
(VINTAGE only)
But strangely, I don't feel too bad about this.
(VINTAGE only)
It's also nice that the beginning and end of the stitching stick out.
Zipper end stopper
The fastening end of the front opening zipper is held in place by a bar tack.
Since this is not visible on the outside, it means that it was fixed at some intermediate step.
It's called a hidden latch.
I love this kind of thing. I like the fact that it's a bar instead of a stitch, and that it didn't feel like a chore to me back then.
Since this is not visible on the outside, it means that it was fixed at some intermediate step.
It's called a hidden latch.
I love this kind of thing. I like the fact that it's a bar instead of a stitch, and that it didn't feel like a chore to me back then.
Tape fastening/Bar fastening
Around the waist, the bar closures are punched out to the front to secure the tapes on the back.
In fact, there are tapes that are sewn at different times.
The clasp was probably there as a temporary fastening, and reminded me of the chest flap on a Levi's Type 3 jacket.
In fact, there are tapes that are sewn at different times.
The clasp was probably there as a temporary fastening, and reminded me of the chest flap on a Levi's Type 3 jacket.
Yes, I'm the type who gets excited easily.
It's hard to tell from just a picture of the front, so this is the inside.
It's hard to tell from just a picture of the front, so this is the inside.
Which one is it?
That's what I thought, but it's a bit hard to understand, so let me explain.
There is a tab with a button attached to the bottom.
The top is secured with a latch, which is visible on the front but not on the endpapers.
That's what I thought, but it's a bit hard to understand, so let me explain.
There is a tab with a button attached to the bottom.
The top is secured with a latch, which is visible on the front but not on the endpapers.
What's more, what's hidden on the visible side is a bar fastening.
Considering that the belt is attached with a chain stitch, it makes sense to attach it to the body first.
Upper front end specification
The edge of the upper front is sewn so that the zipper side facing is placed on top.
So how far does the facing extend on the waist side?
When making a pattern, there are different ways to decide where to cut, so I'm curious about that.
So how far does the facing extend on the waist side?
When making a pattern, there are different ways to decide where to cut, so I'm curious about that.
It's good to look at things from that perspective sometimes.
It went all the way in.
It went all the way in.
And one more point to look at.
Even though you've undone the facing on the zipper side, the stitching for attaching the waist facing remains.
In other words, you can see that the waist facing side is sewn first.
Even though you've undone the facing on the zipper side, the stitching for attaching the waist facing remains.
In other words, you can see that the waist facing side is sewn first.
Some people may think, "So what?", but this is also a good point.
Of course, it's the sewing, but it also has to do with how the waist facing ST looks in relation to the J-shaped stitching at the front opening.
Of course, it's the sewing, but it also has to do with how the waist facing ST looks in relation to the J-shaped stitching at the front opening.
core
As mentioned earlier, the hem interfacing is made from the same fabric, but the webbing on the flap is made from interfacing.
I'm sure the same method of using different cores was used with the M65 PARKA as well.
Perhaps the things that are attached, like the dot buttons, are made from a core, and the things that are sewn into the holes are made from the same fabric.
I wonder if there was some rule like that.
These kinds of differences also leave room for imagination and are fun.
I'm sure the same method of using different cores was used with the M65 PARKA as well.
Perhaps the things that are attached, like the dot buttons, are made from a core, and the things that are sewn into the holes are made from the same fabric.
I wonder if there was some rule like that.
These kinds of differences also leave room for imagination and are fun.
If I start going into detail, I could go on forever, but I'm getting tired so I'll stop here.
I'll post some pictures here.
I'll post some pictures here.
So, it was fun again this time!!
US Army “M65 Field Cargo Pants”
That's all. 
