Vintage Levis S501XX war model
This time it's Levi's S501XX.
At last the time has come,
To be honest, I wasn't planning on getting my hands on a wartime model just yet.
The reason I decided to take on this challenge even though it was a little difficult is because I had decided that the theme of the exhibition in Fukuwo Horu vol.3 would be five-pocket jeans.
Even if we were to display various models of 5-pocket jackets, the main attraction would still be the 501.
The last time we digged into clothes, we held it in a way that allowed people to compare many different 501s.
In other words, the 501 has already used many vintage models.
The ones that I think could be the main focus, such as the 47 model and Big-E, have already been used last time.
"Are you bringing the same things as last time?"
The answer to that question is of course no.
I'm going to take a break from the denim series with this exhibition, so I want to work on it with enthusiasm. I'm going to do it seriously. So I wanted to choose a more aggressive 501 than last time.
That's how this model came about.
I pushed myself quite hard, but even so, the war model I was able to get my hands on was inevitably one with a lot of damage.
So, this is more of a reference than usual. That's what I feel, but I hope you enjoy it.
It goes without saying that World War II was a special time, and its aftereffects are said to have had an impact on manufacturing as well.
The stitching of the products was poor and restrictions on materials such as rivets were forced upon them due to material restrictions, which made the 501s made during that period even more special.
Levis s501xx
There isn't a single straight line.
Even though the buttocks are the most obvious part of the suit, the pattern is straight, and it seems that they placed emphasis on ease of sewing and efficiency. This is not limited to the wartime model, but is common to all 501s.
Depending on how you wear them there are some drawbacks, but this is precisely what gives them their "uniqueness," and I believe it is a prime example that shows the depth and fun of cutting, where beauty is not always the best thing.
Levis s501xx side seam
A part that is not visible under normal circumstances.
But I decided to flip through it because I think there is something important there.
They may be sewn with thicker, stronger thread, and as time goes on they may become chain stitched, and the specifications may also change depending on the brand.
I don't know if this is a specification that was brought about through a firm commitment, but it's heartwarming to see how even these details reflect the flow of the times and the brand's identity.
The sewing method also affects how the garment changes over time, so it's even more complex.
Levis s501xx sewing
My honest impression is that I don't like wartime models.
As someone involved in modern manufacturing, I find it difficult to accept a product with such poor stitching.
However, as an otaku who respects vintage items, this disorder itself allows me to imagine the situation at the time, and I find it quite moving.
Actually, when you look at it, the stitching is not uniform. Was it done in a hurry? Was it done by someone who was short-staffed and did not have the ability to sew? Or was it because the maker was not in a relaxed state to sew? There seems to be some kind of factor at work.
I often hear the theory that skilled workers were mobilized to sew military supplies, but I wonder if that would really have caused such chaos.
If that is the case, then they must have been asked to produce a volume of production that was beyond their capabilities, and it may be that the conditions during wartime were so special that I cannot even imagine them.
Levis s501xx cut off
The fact that raw edges are allowed is also a unique aspect of this era, and although I mentioned earlier that I don't like messy stitching, I find this aspect interesting.
In addition to several areas such as the crotch, the bottom edge of the extension, and the edge of the fabric on the other side, there were some parts that I learned about for the first time.
That was the front edge of the lower front body, and all the 501s I'd seen so far had the extensions and a lock stitching.
This is one of the more obscure aspects of vintage fashion, so it's very striking, and it's also one that's hard to notice.
Levis s501xx rivets
The first one I removed happened to be engraved on one side, and the engraving was done so that it couldn't be seen, so I had a fantasy that maybe they had done it all backwards to save on materials, but if it was just one place, I think it was just a coincidence.
The reason why rivets are associated with saving materials is that normally there are six rivets installed, but this model only has four.
There are no rivets on the coin pocket. This is one way of reducing materials, and it's a feature unique to this era that makes you want to think about it.
To be honest, I have seen a lot of 501s before, and they were featured in the previous issue of Digging for Clothes Vol. 2.
That's why I was worried that there wouldn't be much more I could write about 501.
But as soon as I started working on it, I quickly found that I no longer had any worries.
As a product, I still feel that it is too messy and I don't really like it, but the unique stitch shape, historical background, and the many points that can be considered are what give it its appeal, and I can see why it is a model loved by so many people.
May 2024, 27th, 28th, and 29th
I will be bringing this item to an exhibition in Nakameguro, Tokyo, so I hope you will come and see it.
so,
It was fun again this time!!
Levis S501XX t
That's all.
I am looking forward to meeting you all!