United States Navy-20's P-Coat

This clothing was made about 100 years ago.
It was deeply moving, and I felt compelled to approach it with the awareness that I was learning something valuable.

What does the P in P coat mean?

I casually use it as a pea coat, but I asked ChatGPT about the meaning of the P.
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The "P" in "P Coat" is an abbreviation for "Pilot" or "Pea." It is also commonly called a "Pea Coat" and refers to a short, double-breasted wool coat for cold weather worn by ship crews and pilots. This style of coat is very popular, being used as a military uniform, and is also commonly used by civilians. "P-coat" is used as a general term to refer to coats with such designs.
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That seems to be the case.

Alright,
It is true that for me, who calls myself a denim patterner, this is an item that is somewhat out of my scope.
I'm worried about how far I can sublimate it, but I want to enjoy it to the fullest!

One of the biggest discoveries this time.
"20's P coat is not an open collar type"
In short, the basic style is to close the buttons from the collar all the way to the top, which is a big deal for me, as I had always thought that the basic style of wearing a P coat was to open the top button and leave the body open. It was a discovery.

There are two major reasons why I found this out.
・Front and back sides of the top buttonhole.
・Inside the lapel (the turned part of the body).
was.
Actually, I was able to confirm these two by comparing it with the 40'S P coat.

For the buttonhole
20S → The front of the buttonhole is visible on the front (front side).
40S → The front endpaper (inside) shows the front of the buttonhole.
That was the situation. (Please note that there are individual differences)

Of course, it is normal for the front side of the buttonhole to be visible.
What we can see from this is which side was assumed to be visible when deciding on the direction of the holes, and in other words, what style of wearing was the basis.

The inside of the lapel turn is complicated, so I'll write it very simply.
20S → There is no development or specification for folding on the inside.
40S → The development and specifications for folding can be seen on the inside.
It was that kind of feeling.

It is difficult to say for sure whether the pattern was manipulated to make it turn out neatly, even if you look at the finished product. However, this 20's coat seemed to have no development.
Above all, this judgment was based on the fact that there was no specification for pasting tape on the back of the collar.

USN P coat buttons

A 36mm button.
It is said that the large buttons found on military-related items are meant to make it easier to put on and take off even when wearing gloves, and considering that it has a hand warmer function on the chest area, the same may be said of this item. do not have.
While thinking that...
My wishful thinking is that the design of the buttons may also have had a decorative meaning.
The design of the button changes depending on the year, and the star stamp around it disappears as the year progresses.

USN P coat small button

Button for the chin strap on the collar.
Although it is smaller than the button at 15mm, it has the Ikari⚓ mark engraved on it, and I think this kind of design also contributes to its overwhelming vintage appeal.
The fact that it remains today means that there is an extremely high possibility that there was an overwhelming amount of production, and I wonder if it could be said that it was because of that amount of production that it was possible to incorporate the design into even the smallest buttons that could be removed. ,,
(As for military-related items, there may be things that don't take into account the cost factor.)

USN P coat vent specifications

Vent dawn.
It's hard to tell, but it's the vent part in the center of the back.
The right side is the hem and it looks like you're looking at it from the side.

And surprisingly, there is a hole in the slit part of the vent and it is not sewn.
The back hem is closed except for the vent area.
Has it been resewn? I have considered this possibility and cannot say it is not possible.
But I couldn't find any trace of it.
I wonder if there are a few people who see this and think it's interesting?

USN P coat bag cloth

Inside the bag cloth part.
As expected, the buttonhole is holding down the bag cloth.
Occasionally, I have a problem where the bag cloth in the pockets on the waist and chest of my tops gets loose. (Basically, if it is unlined)
If that fails, it can be said to be the easiest way to hold it down.
Of course, it's also possible that they didn't care about that.

USN P coat cuffs and hem

hem

cuff

I think they often have the same specifications, but they are translated into different specifications.
In the first place, the back of the body and the back of the sleeves are made of different materials, so I think the main factor is the specification based on the material, but I think it's possible to simplify the parts where possible. I feel a little bit of what I like about military-related things, which is the balance between efficiency and efficiency.

USN P coat Sodeyama

USN P coat flap comparison

The waist flap disappears in later years.
When you look at the whole thing from above, it looks cleaner without the flap.
Was it a matter of design?
Was it an efficiency issue?

USN P coat inside

It feels strange that the lining and outer material butt against each other.

USN P coat armhole back

You can see the hand-sewn process here.

Inside it.

USN P coat pocket connection

There is a cloth inside that connects the pocket and armhole.
yeah? It doesn't seem like it's being hung or supported anywhere...
What is it for?

USN P coat tape

Tape is attached to the seam allowance.
It is sewn, not glued.
I feel like it's time consuming.

I think this coat will definitely remain in my memory.
The reason I started working on this unfamiliar item was because it was featured in a magazine.
Last but not least, I was actually featured in the March issue of the magazine, which will be released in January 2023. There, they are listed side by side in comparison with the 40S.

Thank you for reading this far!

so,
He said he was happy because he was able to learn a lot even though it was outside of his scope of defense.
It was fun this time too! !
[USN 20'S P COAT] This is it.