Vintage Levis 501-bigE (late)-Dead Stock

Thank you very much for your support.
PATTERN LABO.My name is Ikasan.

By tearing apart good old vintage clothing, thinking about it, and fantasizing about it, I am striving to make current manufacturing more interesting.

This time

levi's 501 [BIG-E] late model

5Pocket jeans made in the early 1970s.
This is the next generation of the early model of BIG-E that I introduced previously.
Even though we call them the next generation, they are roughly in the same category.
For me, there is a big line.

At the moment, my favorite generation is from the last model of 501XX to the first model of BIG-E.
The reason for this is that it was a transitional period to mass-produced finished products, so it was an interesting era in which various specifications were mixed together.
In other words, this late model of BIG-E can be said to be the era in which it was very close to reaching its mass-produced form.

And this is the most special episode ever.
Because this time it's [DeadStock].
I've always wanted to try DeadStock.
The vintage jeans that we see on a daily basis are often aged, which means they may be twisted or distorted.

On the other hand, if it is dead stock, there will be no twisting or distortion.
In other words, it can be said that the shape can be confirmed before it is twisted.

Breaking DeadStock apart

January 3, 2022 Alone in an empty office early in the new year, I put scissors into the still stiff seam of my dark blue jeans with trembling hands.
At that moment, I was overcome with a sense of guilt that I had never felt before during the demolition.
As someone who is involved in manufacturing, I am disturbed by the thought of tearing apart a beautiful product that is still wearable.

“Will you stop then? No, I'll do it anyway! ”

I wanna try. My interest won out.

However, I want to approach this with even more respect than usual! With that in mind, I made up my mind.
“Even if you have to unravel one stitch at a time, leave all the sewing threads in a recognizable form.”
This decision will increase the time required for demolition to several times the usual amount.
I don't know if it has any meaning or not, it's completely self-satisfying.

As usual, I will leave the results of such self-satisfaction here.
I hope you enjoy it even a little.

Overall picture

Even though I said it was a special occasion, I forgot to take a flat photo.
If you look at the overall picture, you can see that there is no twisting.
And since there is no change over time, it has a refreshing appearance.
I realized once again that the history engraved on denim fabric is profound.

back pocket

Although there are no new discoveries here, it was good to be able to confirm the shape of the body without twisting. (After all, there are individual differences.)

The pocket opening is sewn.
In later generations, it changed to chain stitch.
The difference between lock stitch and chain stitch in this part is sometimes expressed as lock stitch → single chain stitch → chain, but why do I say this? That's what I think.
At the manufacturing site where I work, single usually refers to one stitch. Therefore, the word used alongside single stitch is not chain stitch, but double stitch.
Why did they start calling it single?

Thread color scheme and accessories

The color scheme of the thread is golden brown and yellow, and the bar tacks and holes are black.
The core thread also runs through the hole.
(I've heard that old ones don't have core threads, so I'll keep an eye on them.)
Also, it's not so much a matter of color scheme, but even though it's the same golden brown, there are some areas that are slightly lighter, but I guess it's because of the lot color blurring of the threads. Or is it a change due to sunburn etc? I think it's the former.

stitches on the opposite cloth

This is the biggest sticking point this time, but the stitch that taps the opposite fabric to the bag cloth is [blue]. (Strictly speaking, light blue)
Incredible individual differences!
I don't think this color scheme is good, and it's an individual difference between bad patterns, but it's an interesting point.
why? I don't have an answer to this question, but it is a point that gives me an opportunity to think about it.
By the way, the bag cloth side (lower thread) did not have a color scheme.
The person who wrote [Bobbin].

Front crotch opening, lower crotch area

It's really hard to understand, and I don't know if it will get across.
The stitching on the carry-out part is used as the presser ST for folding the seam allowance in half.
I'm sure the 501s I've seen so far also used this sewing method.
It doesn't matter whether I reproduce it or not, I get excited by this logical feeling.

underside of carryout

There is no ground stitching on the bottom edge of the corbel.
It's just folded in.
This is not a feature exclusive to this period, but I think most VINTAGE 501s look like this.
Having said that, some old items that I haven't disassembled are in a state of bleed.

Cut edges fray

This is also something unique to dead stock, but the untied edges tend to fray.
This doesn't look good either.

hidden bar tacks

This is a hidden part of the back pocket.
There are many things that can be understood just by looking at the photos.
Things like the order in which the seam allowances are folded in, and the notches at the pocket openings.
I would be happy if you could see it from that perspective.

flasher

I don't have enough knowledge to say much about this, but I would like to introduce some points that I thought were interesting.
The way to attach the flasher is to use staples. I don't think this is possible in today's Japanese manufacturing (unless it's done intentionally). It's interesting.
Also, for the first time, I realized that the arrow on the flasher was pointing to the hidden bartack at the pocket opening. I'm embarrassed that I didn't know about it until now. .

Basting (temporary fixing)

One last photo.
The top and sides of the bag cloth are temporarily fastened.
The front pocket part is designed to prevent it from getting loose, but so far it seems to be working 100% of the time.


so,
It was fun this time too! !
levi's 501 [BIG-E] DEAD this.