Burberrys-70sBalmacaan

This time it's Burberrys-70s Balmacaan.
The Burberrys coat is a timeless masterpiece, so I worked on it with great interest.
Please understand that the records written here are only my personal thoughts and do not prove the brand's thoughts or the time.


The lined coat is really big.
Even if you use a 2m x 2m canvas, it won't fit.
In addition to the size, it had many interesting features that denim doesn't have, such as the number of notches and core.

two sleeves

One-sleeve Burberrys coats are more popular than two-sleeves.
“Well, wearing one sleeve is more modern.”
I used to think short-sighted like that, but this time I changed my mind.
The front sleeves have a very strong curve. Speaking very roughly, this makes it easier to follow the body from the shoulders to the arms.
The idea of ​​following the body (along the shoulders) will make you feel uncomfortable if the shoulder points are misaligned. Nowadays, people tend to wear oversized clothes, so it's difficult to handle them, and even when purchasing VINTAGE, it's difficult because it needs to fit your body.
When people say, ``You'll understand when you put it on, even if you don't take it apart,'' that's exactly right!

Tape connecting armhole and sleeve

Saddle stitching with tape is not at all unusual.
What struck me was that the tape was made of a fabric that was never used anywhere else.
I thought it was interesting because I had the impression that scraps of the outer material and lining were often used, and tape was used as a material.

Since it's an invisible part, there's no need to worry about how it looks, and instead of making it every time, I wonder if they'll make a long piece of tape and use it at some point.

The end of the hem and the front endpaper

Items that are lined often have a space called ``kise''. This coat also includes it, of course.

The kise is included in the lining part, but I thought it was normal that it was not included in the facing part.
But look at this image!
Even the endpapers are quirky! !
This may be obvious to those who know about it or those who are involved in manufacturing that involves a lot of these products.
(I received a DM saying that this actually happens quite often)

Still, it was a new discovery for me, and I felt that I had been trapped in the idea that it was ``normal.''
And I really like this specification.
This is because I feel there is a good balance between efficiency and quality.
Of course, depending on the fabric, the specifications may not be as good.
Clothes are a really interesting mix of different elements.

Partial core of hem

Adhesive interlining is partially attached to the hem and cuffs of the body.
The adhesive interlining was properly attached to avoid the seam allowance.
In the denim industry, where I am mainly involved, there are quite a few people who choose not to attach partial cores, so I don't know much about this as a matter of course, but I thought it was amazing.

Stop part of fly wing

The buttonholes are sewn in place at the midpoints between the buttonholes.
When designing Hiyoku, you can see it in various items.
Personally, I like it secured with bolts.

collar hanging

A square piece of fabric is folded into a loop and attached to the collar, but the number of folds is more than the minimum. I don't know if the extra fold is intentional or just a mistake.
Still, I would like to think that there are many folds on purpose to serve as a collar hanger.
Considering how the whole thing is made, it would be nice if that was the case.

inner pocket

I don't know if the name is correct, but it is made so that you can access the pockets of other clothes such as jackets from the box pocket of your coat.
Among this type of pockets with double piping underneath the box pocket , this method may be my favorite so far.

Cuff lining sewing

The seams are misaligned.
That's not what I mean.
What I'm trying to say is that the fact that this seam is misaligned means that the cuff side is sewn first and then the transition line is sewn.
So when I solved it, I got a situation like below.

What is normal? From that point of view, I basically try not to talk about it.
Of course, subjectivity comes into play.

anti-stretch tape

As someone who often comes into contact with denim-related items, it was very refreshing for me.
Vintage denim items rarely have cores or stretch marks attached. Actually, it's not 100% at the moment.
Even in today's manufacturing sites, we sometimes instruct to attach a core to make it sewable, but we almost never instruct the pattern to use anti-stretch tape.

Apparently, depending on the factory's judgment, it may be pasted on areas where seams are likely to shrink, such as the waist.

so,
It was fun this time too! !
Burberrys-70sBalmacaan this.